Clutch assembly

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Note: anytime the motor is removed, look at the clutch for wear and replace worn out elements as necessary. The relatively cheap associated with the clutch elements compared to the some time trouble invested getting use of them warrants their particular replacement - unless they truly are brand new or in almost perfect condition - anytime the engine is removed.

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Clutch Removal

1. Note: the stress dish installation and clutch disk remain on the flywheel whenever you take away the motor. The clutch launch (throw-out) bearing and related parts stay-in the transmission.

   Stress Dish

   Clutch Disc

2. If old pressure plate will be used again, scribe or paint positioning scars on the stress dish and also the flywheel to make sure proper realignment regarding the pressure dish during reassembly.
3. Hold the pressure dish firmly and entirely, then loosen the stress plate-to-flywheel bolts by-turning each bolt a little at the same time. Operate in a criss-cross design until all spring force is relieved. Then take away the bolts, accompanied by the pressure dish as well as the clutch disk.

   Care: pressure plate is under a lot of springtime pressure. If you work your path around the plate, getting rid of each bolt individually, it'll warp.

4. Clean the rubbing area on the flywheel and examine it for wear, cracks, heat checking, grooves, also apparent defects. Alternating brigt and lifeless areas indicate a warped dish. A device store can device the top level and smooth (imperative, regardless of area appearance). Light glazing can be removed with method grit emery fabric.
5. Inspect the diaphragm springtime hands for exorbitant use and make yes they're not distorted.
6. Shake pressure dish system and verify the diaphragm springtime, that ought to be under stress, will not rattle. If the stress dish is defective at all, replace it.
7. If you would be reinstalling the engine you eliminated, clean the flywheel and force plate friction areas with lacquer slimmer or acetone.

   Caution: don't use oil or grease on these surfaces or from the clutch disk liner. And clean both hands before handling the parts.

8. Inspect the clutch release (throw-out) bearing. If it feels gritty when you switch it, or if it was making noise, replace it. Never wash the bearing in solvent because this will take away the factory-installed lubricant. In the event that bearing is unserviceable, replace per the procedure.
9. Inspect the liner in the clutch disk for wear. There should be at the least 2mm of rubbing product remaining over the rivet heads.
10. Check out the clutch disk for loose rivets, distortion, splits, damaged springs and other apparent damage.

    Note: As mentioned above, normally the clutch disk is routinely changed, so if in question the condition, change it with a new one. If you're about to re-use the old clutch disk, it's wise to check on it for runout.

11. Carefully examine the splines inside the hub for the clutch disk therefore the splines regarding the transmission feedback shaft. They need to never be damaged or altered. Lubricate the splines when you look at the disk hub and also the splines on feedback shaft with graphite or molybdenum disulfide powder (Rob's final replacement clutch dish came with a tiny tube of special "spline" grease to-be smeared sparingly from the splines).
12. Verify that clutch disk slides freely from the drive shaft splines without exorbitant radial play. If the clutch disk is within in any manner unservicable, change it.

    Note: you are most likely changing the clutch disk anyway, if the splines on the feedback shaft are damaged, you need to replace the feedback shaft and.

    Note: if you're changing the key oil seal, take away the flywheel at this time and change the clutch after the flywheel has been reinstalled.