One More Stitch: Reticule or

Reticule Bag

Fichu de Velours, Redingote de Merinos, Costume ParisieneThe name originates from the latin reticulum, indicating a web or mesh bag (the same word gave its meaning to reticle – the cross-hairs (or web) in a firearm scope or telescope). It joined English, as a lot of manner terms performed, from French, in cases like this, réticule.

The word was first used in the 1730s, but stayed fairly uncommon through eighteenth century. The Memoirs of this Reticule says ” I am not alert to any mention of reticule until following the French Revoluton.” At the end of the eighteenth century, as fashions changed from full-skirted clothes might effortlessly conceal pouches, to thin garments of light materials that could show ugly bulges over pouches, that reticules arrived to their. Effortlessly made, effortlessly held, these were the vital accessory of this final ten years associated with 18th century in addition to very first three years associated with the nineteenth. These were, in reality, therefore extremely vital which they had been also known as indispensables.

Reticules might be essential helpful, however they weren’t beyond reproach. Older females continued to prefer pouches, and reticules were regarded as becoming nearly risqué, since they were basically pouches, and so an undergarment that has been unexpectedly continued the exterior. You can liken all of them to corsets in the modern world – even though it is acceptable to put on a corset as evening wear, it's nevertheless somewhat suggestive, and certainly not suitable for conventional gown. Reticules had been also condemned if you are masculine, because males carried their cash also items outside their gown, in pocketbooks and bags, and women hid their items away in pouches.Reticule, 1818–30, Mexican, cup, silk, Metropolitan Museum of Art 2009.300.1902 Now females had a purse of their own might actually be passed away from hand-to-hand (additionally the obvious metaphor of pouches vs purses specially when your purses will be the typical reticule shape all becomes just a little fine, apparent and strange relating to this point).

Even when perhaps not scandalous, the idea of ladies holding their private things externally, in their hand, was considered ridiculous. The Almanac diverses Ridicules, 1801, begins with slightly rhyme about reticules and their particular riduculousness into effect that a woman looses her reticule, and really wants to upload an indicator “don’t do something, states her husband, you can expect to always have enough ridiculousness.” Reticules had been already widely known as ridicules by now.

Although reticules stopped to be as important as fashion accessories once designs altered, and stiffer bags, and complete clothes with pouches, came into fashion due to the fact 19th century progressed, reticules remained utilized, both as manner products, so when a term to designate a specifically feminine carry-all. In 1867 a small dictionary had been entitled: A male individual would carry their version in the pocket, but a woman, in the place of having a purse, could have a reticule to hold hers in.

Among the numerous advantages of reticules ended up being just how simple these were to make. Rigid leather purses needed special resources and powerful hands, and were the provenance of leather-based workers, but any seamstress could make a reticule. The 1831 United states Girl’s Book: Or, Occupation for Enjoy Hours, features an entire chapter specialized in reticules, with instructions on ten different types, from a ‘melon formed reticule’ to a ‘pocket book reticule’ (guidelines in making most of the reticules, with pictures, begin on web page 262 if you are interested).

Walking outfit, Ackerman's Repository, Vol. 5, Feb. 1, 1811Sources:

Hiner, Susan. Add-ons to Modernity: Fashion plus the Feminine in Nineteenth-Century France. University of Pennsylvania Press. 2011

Monroe & Francis, The Spirit for the English mag. 1831

Riberio, Aileen. Fashion inside French Revolution. B.T. Batsford Ltd: London. 1988

Waugh, Norah. The Cut of Women’s Clothes: 1600-1930. Faber and Faber: London. 1968

Very famous, and certainly most charming, reticule fashions was for pineapple shaped reticules. Many resources credit the trend to a manner for exotic fruits inspired by Joséphine de Beauharnaises homeland of Martinique, but pineapples have been a symbol of ultimate exoticism and deluxe in European arts and fashion since their introduction into European countries in the seventeenth century.Knitted pineapple reticule when you look at the Kyoto Museum’s 1800-1810 collection these were cultivated in greenhouses across European countries from 1720s, and in the late 18th and early 19th century you could even rent pineapples for your social gathering centrepieces, to provide your event that final touch of wide range and beauty.

Historical examples of pineapple reticules were often knitted or crocheted, in my typical “we can’t knit, but how to reproduce this design” means, I’ve been working on sewn variations of pineapple reticule for many years today. American Duchess won my first one in a giveaway, and I also was thrilled to see in a recently available image that she however holds it.

For HSF, to mix some more challenges off my number, I’ve made another pineapple reticule. This might be my 4th attempt, but I’ve misplaced at least two along the way in which.

It’s less precious as the crocheted versions, but i love it! What exactly challenges does it protect?

#1: Bi/Tri/Quadri/Quin/Sex/Septi/Octo/Nona/Centennial – pineapple reticules were most fashionable in the 1st decade regarding the nineteenth century, but you can find examples from because late as 1830, so this one is absolutely possible (or as much as it can be with its inaccuracies) for 1813.

Fabric: scrap of orange-gold silk with pintucks, scrap of green silk (both from stash, and free)

Pattern: my personal

Year: 1800-1830

Notions: Ribbon (icky poly satin, therefore I must get a hold of an improved alternative

How historically precise is it? The concept of a pineapple reticule is precise, nevertheless the materials (despite becoming silk) and execution are not.

Hours to perform: 2ish. Fun small night task.

Pineapple reticule Pineapple reticule Knitted pineapple reticule within the Kyoto Museum’s 1800-1810 collection Reticule, eighteenth century, British, silk, straw, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 13.49.14

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